Friday, 13 June 2008

Thursday, 7 February 2008

Salamanca Holidays

The province of Salamana borders with Portugal and the provinces of Zamora, Avila and Caceres and is one of the most magic provinces in Spain. Fertile lands watered by the riveres Duero and Tormes, vast pastures used for cattle and pig farming, spectacular natural parks, including the Arribes del Duero and Peña de Francia, picturesque villages lost in time, and of course, its majestic capital, the City of Salamanca, a World Heritage City, European Culture Capital in 2002, Spain's oldest university and one of its most beautiful and monumental cities in the country (many would say the most).

Salamanca capital city
Salamanca is city reminiscent of Oxford or Cambridge in the sense that it seems to breathe art, culture and knowledge as you walk along the streets and admire its señorial houses, small palaces, university buildings, towers, churches, the cathedral. For the best panoramic view of the city, go to the Parador of Salamanca on the other side of the River Tormes. Popular with thousands of foreign students who come to Salamanca each year to study one of the Spanish language and culture courses offered by the University or one of the seemingly hundreds of acadamies, Salamanca is a cosmopolitan, lively city.
History

Like most parts of Spain, Salamanca was occupied by the Romans and Visigoths. During Moorish occupation of Spain power toed and froed between the Arabs and Christians. In the 11th Century Alfonso VI consolidated Christian rule and appointed Count Raimundo de Borgoña, to rule over the city. This was the beginning of Salamanca's recovery, as the new stability encouraged people from all over the Iberian Peninsula to make their home in the city. In the 12th century the Old Cathedral was built and as it became a center of study, the seeds of one of Europe's first universities were sown. As the center of study grew, so religious orders and scholars started flocking to Salamanca, and their presence consolidated the University. Convents were built, money was donated by the Catholic church leaders, residences for scholars were built, and Salamanca became Spain's most important city during the Renaissance period, resulting in the so-called Spanish Golden Age (Siglo de Oro) when Spanish art, literature and music flourished. Fray Luis de León, Antonio de Nebrija, Lope de Vega, Christopher Columbus, Calderón de la Barca, Teresa de Jesús, San Juan de la Cruz, Cervantes and Christopher Columbus all spent part of their lives in Salamanca.

The Plaza Mayor
Probably the best place from where to start walking around Salamanca, and where to have a cafe con leche or glass of cold water at one of the tables set up by the bars and cafes in the square. The Plaza Mayor was built in the 18th century.

The University
It has a beautiful architecture and the famous plateresque façade with the hidden frog. The Old University Library is simply awesome, with shelves full of old literary and scholarly works of art. The library has over 160,000 volumes. Also visit the cloister, the paraninfo and the surrounding University buildings.

Casa de las Conchas
Renaissance. Casa de las Conchas is one of Salamanca's most emblematic buildings. Today it is an art gallery and library.

Catedral Viaja
XIII. The Old Cathedral of Salamanca has a unique façade of this building which was to become the one of Europe's main temples of knowledge and scientific research, and the embrion of one of Europe's first universities.

Catedral Nueva
The New Cathedral of Salamanca is again unique in the decoration of the façades. It has a Romanic and gothic mixture of styles since the work on the new Cathedral began in the 1400s and ended in the 1700s.

Convento de las Dueñas
Convent founded by Juana Rodríguez Maldonado in 1419 is a beautiful cloister. The nuns sell pastries and sweets to visitors.

Clerecia
Is an unfinished example of religious barroque art. A huge cupola, magnificent 12th century altarpiece covered with gold and stairway.

Casa Lis Museum
Art nouveau and Art Deco, the Casa Lis Museum receives more visitors than any other museum in the whole of Castilla y Leon.

Museo de Bellas Artes: Art museum.

Palacio de La Salina
16th century structure attributed to Alonso de Fonseca. Headquarters of the Provincial government, this building has a beautiful indoor patio.

Convento y Museo de las Úrsulas
Convent and museum in one of the favourite areas of locals for having a paseo (stroll) in the evening.

Colegio del Arzobispo Fonseca
Rennaisance patio. Cultural activities are organised here in the Summer months and next door there is a former hospedería (hostal) where art exhibitions and other cultural activities are held all year round.
Cueva de Salamanca
Where, according to legend, the devil used to teach scholars everything that their religious teachers would not teach them.

Huerto de Calixto y Melibea
Lovely garden where supposedly Calixto and Melibea used to meet.

Iglesia de San Martin
12th century church next to the Plaza Mayor. Romanic façade.

Convento de San Esteban: Spectacular plateresque façade where in the center above the entrance is Ceroni's Martyrdom of St. Stephen (1610). The church, designed by Juan de Álava in the shape of a Latin cross, was begun in 1524. The beautifu inner courtyard is a blends Gothic and Renaissance styles.

Museo de la Historia de la Ciudad
Museum which explains the history of Salamanca.

Casa-Museo de Unamuno
House of Miguel Unamuno, the emblematic philosopher and scholar who was Rector of the University of Salamanca for two long periods until Franco's troops put him under house arrest until he died.
Eat in Salamanca
One of the characteristics of Salamanca's countryside are its wild pastures dotted with bushes and oak trees where pigs walk around eating fallen acorns which give all pork products a special flavour
Salamanca is famous for its cured pork meats and hams, and for the beef from the morucha cow, a breed which is only found in this province. Other typical dishes based on local produce are pulse stews and casseroles (lentils, chickpeas, beans of all shapes and sizes), cereals, roast suckling pig and breads.
Restaurants
Chez Victor, probably the best restaurant in the city. Modern using local traditional ingredients; Merchán, creative cuisine; La Hoja, next to the Plaza Mayor, good traditional food; La Aldaba, specialised in morucha beef dishes; La Encina, a modest restaurant serving good grilled meats.
Tapas bars in Salamanca: The most famous (and popular so it's difficult to get a place at the bar) are: El Acedos, La Bodega, Bosque and El Trillo.

San Sebastian Holidays

Just 21km west of the French border, within the Basque Country, lies Donostia-San Sebastian, the summer capital of Spain. It lies against the Bay of Biscay, surrounded by green mountains. During the summer months the population here swells as the Spanish head here to escape the inland heat. It has about 180,000 inhabitants.

San Sebastian is a tasteful resort without the normal holiday resort trimmings and makes an ideal base from which to explore the Basque Country. This is the capital of the province of Guipuzcoa, the smallest province in Spain. The city offers quiet, natural places just minutes from the city centre and the city is divided into two by the River Urumea.

Getting to San Sebastian is relatively easy as it is linked to most of Spain's major cities by bus. The trains from Madrid to the French border at Irun all stop here. Iberia airlines also offer flights from Madrid to San Sebastian airport.

Donostia-San Sebastian was once a small fishing village and the inhabitants lived facing the sea. They were known to have hunted whales and fished for cod. At one point it was a thriving port, importing wines and oil for France and England. Over the centuries the city has undergone many sieges and in 1808 it was occupied by Napoleon's soldiers who stayed here until 1813. The city fell into decline in the 19th century but was lifted in 1845 when Queen Isabel II arrived in the city to spend the summer there, a tradition that continued for decades.

No visit to the city is complete without a visit to the old quarter (Parte Vieja) where most of the traditional local life takes place. Its narrow streets are packed with bars and restaurants. The Plaza de la Constitución is where you will find the library, once the Town Hall. The square was once used as a bullring. The Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro, patron saint of the city can be found on the only street that remains from the 1813 fire, the Calle 31 de Agosto. The old quarter opens out to the sea at the harbour, home to the fishing fleet as well as the pleasure craft. Here you will find the Naval Museum and the Aquarium.

Donostia-San Sebastian has three beaches, La Concha, Ondarreta and La Zurriola. La Concha was made popular by Queen Isabel and is considered to be one of the most beautiful city beaches in Europe. Ondarreta beach stands at the foot of Mount Igeldo and has a more aristocratic feel to it because of the villas and gardens that lead to the sand. La Zurriola is to be found on the right bank of the river and has undergone a massive project to increase its size by reclaiming land from the sea. It is now much bigger than La Concha beach. All three beaches offer tourist changing rooms, parasols and sunbeds. Standing in the centre of La Concha Bay is the tiny Santa Clara Island with a lighthouse and a small wharf. This island turns into the city's fourth beach in the summer with a ferry service from the harbour.

There are many monuments to explore in the city, such as the Cathedral, a neo-Gothic structure of the 19th century. Its spire at 75m high can be seen from most of the city. On Mount Urgull you will find the Castillo de la Santa Cruz de la Mota which stands on the site of an earlier fort. All over the city you will find open-air sculptures by local artists. The city also offers several parks and gardens. Wide open spaces of green with manor houses and water features.

Wandering round the shops will probably prompt you to endulge in one of the local Basque products such as cotton shirts and berets. Paseo de Muelle is the best shopping area where you will be able to buy almost anything.
The sunsets in San Sebastian can be spectacular, as is the nightlife. Much of the nightlife is based in the old quarter, as are most of the best restaurants. They offer a wide selection of cuisine but seafood is the speciality.

The north of Spain is becoming increasingly attractive to other Europeans as the southern part of Spain is bursting at its seams but if you intend to buy a property here then be prepared - its by no means as easy as it is in the south. Most agents speak very little English. San Sebastian is, with Madrid, the most expensive city in Spain! houses are very expensive!

Santander Holidays

Although we can be fairly sure that man has inhabited the coastal areas around the Bay of Santander since prehistoric times, there was no physical evidence of this until the Roman era.

Archaeological remains unearthed in the Península de la Magdalena (Magdalena Peninsula), San Martín and in the Catedral (Cathedral) point to the existence of a Roman settlement, traditionally known as Portus Victoriae Iuliobrigensium, and cited in several classical sources.

At the beginning of the Middle Ages the settlement was concentrated in the area surrounding the Cathedral. The San Emeterio and San Celedonio Monastery and the Castillo de San Felipe (San Felipe Castle) were also in the vicinity. According to legend, the heads of the martyrs Emeterio and Celedonio were brought to Santander from Calahorra in the third century.

Santander appears to have originated in the latinised form of Saint Emeterio, Sancti Emetherii, which passed through several versions before becoming the name we know today - Sant Em'ter / San Ender / Sant Ander. The settlement was a walled enclosure with seven gates providing access, and had various hermitages.

In 1187 King Alfonso VIII drew up a charter which made the Abbot of San Emeterio feudal lord of the hamlet. At that time the inhabitants lived clustered around the monastery and survived by fishing and cultivating cereals, vineyards and fruit trees. The houses were divided by a river into two parts, Puebla Vieja y Puebla Nueva (Old Town and New Town), linked by a stone bridge.

During the Reconquista (Reconquest) when Spain fought to recapture the country from the Moors, Santander was involved in numerous naval battles, together with San Vicente de la Barquera, Laredo and Castro Urdiales, the four towns making up the so called Cuatro Villas del Mar (Four Towns on the Sea). In 1248 during the reign of Fernando III el Santo (The Saint) Santander took part in the battle for Seville, fighting under the command of Admiral Boniface. In recognition of its contribution, the King granted Santander a coat of arms boasting a golden tower, a chain over the Guadalquivir river and a ship.

Later, Santander and Laredo became the principal ports of the Kings of Castille, especially important in the wool trade with Flanders. At the end of the XVI century, however, the town was decimated by the plague and entered a period of economic decline.

During the XVIII century, trade with America revitalised Santander's fortunes. In 1754, the same year as the Camino de la Meseta (Route across the Plateau) opened up towards Reinosa, Pope Benedict XIV founded the bishopric of of Santander. What had until that time been a collegiate church became the Cathedral. In 1755 King Fernando VI conferred the title of city on Santander.

Throughout the XIX century, heavy trading with America brought about important changes in the city. The population grew, the port and shipyards expanded and the whole business infrastructure of the city developed.

Tradgedy struck Santander at the end of the XIX century. In 1893 the freighter Cabo Machichaco exploded in the harbour, resulting in the loss of more than five hundred lives and severe structural damage.


Santander experienced a boom in architecture and expansion in the early twenbtieth century, after the city became the summer favourite of King Alfonso XIII. Elaborate buildings such as the del Palacio de la Magdalena (Magdalena Palace), the Gran Casino del Sardinero (Grand Casino in El Sardinero) and the Hotel Real (Royal Hotel) all date from this period.

Shortly after the end of the Spanish Civil War, the city suffered another setback. In 1941 a terrible fire swept through Santander, whipped up by a prevailing south wind, and tragically destroyed much of the Old Quarter.

Nowadays, Santander is a well-restored, modern city, and one of the lovliest on the Spanish coast. Its cultural heritage, cosmopolitan air, and seaside elegance make it a highly popular destination for tourists.

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Santiago de Compostela Holidays

One of the most beautiful of all Spanish cities, Santiago de Compostela has been a travellers' destination for so long that it boasts the oldest hotel in the world – the Hostal dos Reis Católicos. The city is also the subject of the first guidebook in history, the early 12th-century Codex Calixtinus, part of which details the famous pilgrim route, the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James). The city's importance in the history of Christianity is such that it is the third holiest site in Christendom, after Jerusalem and Rome. Santiago de Compostela is a national monument, and its artistic and historical importance was confirmed when, in 1993, the entire city was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This was further corroborated when it became a European city of culture for the year 2000.

Today, Santiago de Compostela remains an exquisitely preserved medieval cathedral town, centred on the shrine of the apostle James, after whom the city is named. The winding narrow streets of the Old Quarter are built from local granite and on clear days, the warm and golden stone glows in the sunlight. Even on the more frequent rainy days, the facades glisten beguilingly – the Praza do Obradoiro, with the great Baroque façade of the Cathedral, is especially glorious. The entire Old Quarter is a honeycomb of architectural charm, perfect for exploring on foot.

Santiago de Compostela is almost entirely Romanesque and Baroque – the city's 18th-century ecclesiastical patrons lavished so much wealth on this particular architectonic approach that it evolved into a style known as Galician Baroque.

The city is far more than a mere stone relic. The Way of St James is still an enormously popular pilgrim's route, drawing thousands of people every year from around the world to the Cathedral – as, indeed, it has for the whole of the last millennium. The 730km (454-mile) walk from Roncevalles culminates in the Pilgrim's Mass, at noon each day, with the great botafumeiro (incense burner) swinging above the heads of worshippers in the Cathedral transept, dispensing clouds of sweet-smelling incense. The image of Santiago (St James) in the form of the scallop shell is evident around the city, an important symbol since the 11th century. While its origin is a mystery, it continues to be worn by pilgrims today.

Situated in the very northwest of the country, some 40km (25 miles) from the coast, Santiago de Compostela is one of the wettest places in Spain. The damp climate means that it is wet in winter and humid in summers, while evenings can be chilly. As the capital of the region, it has a key role within the province of Galicia. The region itself is strongly defined, with a distinct Celtic strain and a self-conscious and aggressively self-promoting regional identity.

While its writers may hymn the Celtic mysteries of the characteristic Galician forests and misty groves, Santiago de Compostela is also the focus of modern broadcasting, press and publishing enterprises designed to reinforce Galego (Galician) as a language and a unifying cultural force. Santiago de Compostela's famous university attracts a large number of students, which guarantees the city a youthful ambience. The university (founded in 1501) has long given a lively buzz of activity to the city's bars, cafés and restaurants. Small enough to be strongly influenced by its university, Santiago de Compostela revels in a continuously refreshed influx of youthful energy and inventiveness that treats the grand stone edifices as the most superb of stage sets.